Groomswear

Sip on This…

By Sloane Stephens Cox

A “latte” of coffee colors will be gracing groomsmen in 2008.

“Latte is the number one color when it comes to vests, and Riviera café is next,” said Lynn Wheelus, president of Rein’s Formal Wear in Pensacola. “Shades of brown are huge.”

Experts say Starbucks sparked the trend, and now coffee colors appear to be taking over the fashion world. Most significantly, brown is moving beyond vests and into the territory of traditional black tuxes.

“I can’t believe it, but brown is what’s hot for tuxes, too,” Wheelus said. “Our area is probably a little more conservative than Atlanta and New Orleans, so I don’t buy as aggressively as some of the more fashion-conscious bigger cities.”
“The browns we’ve done so far have been a striped brown. We’ve had black so long that it’s nice to see something different.”

Of course, a brown tux dictates brown shoes, brown socks and a shirt that’s not stark white. “We’re seeing more ivory shirts than white,” she said.

But traditional black is still the predominant color for vests and tuxes in this area, wedding experts say.

“Basic black will always be preferred,” said Robert Bellanova, owner of Randall’s Formal Wear in Pensacola and Mobile. “It’s a classic look.”

Black and brown are not the only color brides are imbibing for their bridal parties. Experts say there are a variety of styles making an impact.                       

TUXES
• Gray.  Also, black with a brown stripe.
VESTS
• Persimmon, clover, cerise, apple and cornflower blue. When it comes to shades of green, “last year it was kiwi, this year it’s clover,” Wheelus said.
TIES
• Paisley and stripes. “We’re still seeing a lot of these,” Wheelus said.
• Long, straight ties. “They’re 90 percent of what we’re doing,” said Richard Crenshaw, owner of Gent’s Formal Wear in downtown Pensacola.
• Bowties. “They’re making a comeback, and it’s refreshing,” Wheelus said. “Manufacturers have done so much with long ties that when you saw the awards shows, you didn’t know if the men were wearing tuxes or suits. Everyone has gotten so casual in weddings, they had to do something to revamp the whole industry.”
• Long ties. “They’re still the preferred ties in the industry,” said Bellanova said.
LAPELS
• Peak lapels, especially with edges piped with satin. “Calvin Klein is doing this,” Wheelus said.
Crenshaw said, “Notch lapels have been around for several years, but the peak, which was big in the Reagan era, is making a resurgence. At the Emmy Awards, all the stars were wearing peak lapels. When you see that, you know it’s coming here.”
• Notch lapel. “They’re still big,” Bellanova said. “The two-button with the notch lapel is the most flattering of all suits.”
COAT LENGTHS
• Regular-length jackets. “We’re not seeing a lot of uses of the tailcoats right now,” Wheelus said. “They haven’t disappeared, but it’s just not something they’re pushing down our throats right now.”
ACCESSORIES
• Belts with buckles. “This was the most unique trend I’ve seen,” Bellanova said. “The buckles are fairly large, which I think takes away from the look of the tux. They’re turquoise or different colors that will blend with the ties and the bridesmaids’ dresses, and they’re worn with long ties that end at the buckle. It’s a huge expense because we have to buy pants with belt loops, as well as all these different accessories – the belts and the buckles – in thousands of colors. They’re a more casual look because you wear them without a vest, so they’re touted more as a prom look. But prom usually dictates the wedding trends because young trends tend to mainstream eventually.”
• Pointy-toe shoes. “They went from round to square about 10 years ago, and now they’re pointy,” Crenshaw said. “All over Italy last year, cowboy-pointy is what you’d see walking down the street everywhere. And that’s what’s making it to [wedding] shoes.”
• Silver cufflinks. “It was all gold about five years ago and now we’re seeing a resurgence of platinum and silver cufflinks,” Crenshaw said.
Destination-wedding attire

• Italian suits. “These were big for spring,” Wheelus said. “They’re more tailored than the regular American suit. They typically have a more tailored waist and are made of better fabric.”